Welcome to BigCarClub!

Not logged in!

Hey there, welcome to BigCarClub!
You don't need to be logged in to view the forum but the experience will be so much better if you are! Users can login or if you don't have an account already, you can create one for free by clicking the Register link in the top right corner of this page.


No start Seat alhambra mk1 2.0s petrol. 2000 plate.

Started by bobnandra, September 23, 2022, 06:21:06 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

My Alhambra (Sharan clone), is not starting.

I changed the in tank fuel pump in January, so I know that should be OK.

When I open the door, I no longer hear the fuel pump priming up.

The car was Intermittently starting, but now has given up the ghost.

I have checked the fuses and the relays, and they all work, but I can't test the 410 relay, which has 8 pins as it looks more Complicated. When I crank the engine, I can see the relay close. I have checked the contacts with a multimeter and there is continuity there.

I cannot hear the fuel pump humming anymore.
I checked power at the fuel pump and it is about 5v.
When it is operating, I should be getting 12V there , but I am not getting 12V anymore.

Do you think it could be the 410 relay, which has a part no. 6N0906383. I am guessing this is the fuel pump relay.
I have been trying to source a new one, but as yet not found one in the UK. Apart from used ones. And from abroad, it is in the £70-£100 price !!

If someone can tell me if my one ; 6N0906383 is the same as 6N0906383A and 6N0906383B ? The issue is, my one has 8 pins and the A & B ones seem to have 7 pins !!?? So I don't think they will work. I have seen one website showing 6N0906383B with 8 pins. But most show 7 pins and the drawing on the side of the relay shown 7 pins whereas mine shows 8 connections.

Does anyone know how to test my relay ? Is there a procedure I can follow?

I don't have VCDS so need a manual test procedure if possible for the relay or for the car.

Help greatly appreciated.
Crasher.. any suggestions?

The NEW Replacement fuel pump I fitted is a cheap RIDEX Fuel Feed Unit, which was about £50, but it was noisy from day one. It was installed a year ago. I will check if the terminals to the fuel pump switch to 12V  when the ignition is turned.. Maybe this is another case of Buy cheap, buy twice !!


I think your idea of testing for 12v at the pump is probabbly your best bet to test the relay personally.

The petrol models are somewhat scarcer than the diesels, and the Ford badged ones are entirely different to the Seat/VW ones so there isn't much to help there.

The usual relay issue either causes cranking but no start, or no crank depending if its a MK1 or MK2 on the Ford side (MK1 has seperate indicators on the front, MK2 are part of the headlight). In both cases, that causes the door led to flash rapidly and diagnostics will not connect.

If you have a laptop then VCDS is fairly cheap to get working, a lead like this is the only thing you'd need to buy


Don't know as its going to help you much at this point, but its worth having if you have one of these vehicles to deal with, certain bits need diagnostics to reset them (airbag clock spring for example) and the lead is cheaper than checking in into the garage to reset the codes.

I'd also say given you couldn't connect to the ecu before, that you really need to retest that function.

Bear in mind bad contacts in the fusebox can cause same sort of symptoms as failed relays


I was getting 12V at the fuel pump connector, so the Relay was OK.

I ordered a replacement Fuel Pump, RIDEX manufacturer, same pump as before, for about £50 from Germany. It has a two year warranty..  No way could I justify a Genuine £400 Pump.

I tested the new pump, by powering it up with the connector, and it came to life. So my wiring up to the pump was OK after all, and it was not the Expensive Fuel Relay.  I fitted the pump and the car is now running OK once again.

Before returning the 11 month old faulty pump, I thought I would test it by applying power to the unit again, and would you believe it, the bloody thing started working again !!  I suppose in the process of taking it out, I must have knocked it back into operation.  Now my problem will be, if the retailer asks for it back and tests it, it will test OK. So don't know if I will get my money back, or they may say it is too much bother to add extra return postage for a £50 Unit. 

Either way, I am sure the unit is failing and it was working intermittently before giving up.  I am still glad I have changed it.   Let's see how long this new unit lasts.

Good to have the Daily Runner up and Running again, that is until ULEZ forces me to scrap the car next October as I live in the extended zone...  :sad:

Might be a daft question, but have you actually checked the ULEZ against your Reg? My 2001 2.3 Ford is compliant so you may be ok. Its also probabbly saleable if you find someone outside of the zone if not.