Hi gang, first time galaxy owner long time Ford owner. Just curious whos done what to their galaxy? I've done mad things in the past including an escort cossy with 460bhp and a 4x4 mondeo which coped with everything. So far I lowered the gal and put 18's on which has made a good difference but where do you stop? i'm not going mad with this one as its not the right car to be sooping up but I still want a good sound system and i've been looking at the factory bodykit. anyone know the costs or part numbers for that and will it fit the v6 as i've only seen them on dervs so far! what about the 4motion kit aswell? has anyone converted a gal to a 4 wheel drive?

=Grant=

460bhp? Blimey bet that shifted :)

Mines lowered and had every option fitted to it but thats about it, I did toy with both the bodykit and the 4x4 system but they only did the 4motion on the V6 and the 115bhp versions which makes me think the transfer box can't handle the combination of power/torque from the bigger diesel engines but theoretically at least it should all bolt up. Finding a 4motion for spares at a reasonable price will be the tricky thing though, there arn't that many about and you need LOTS of bits off it to swap between the two (Even the fuel tank has a different part number for the 4x4)

With regards a bodykit there are few fiberglass options. Again the price is the prohibitive thing, I got it all priced up about 3 months ago: Its not pretty!

1128960,1128961 & 1128962 are "refered" at Ford.
Refered parts have a 21-30 day lead time
Here is the information requested:
Galaxy (+)"GB" 1.9L Diesel TC(115PS) 5 Door RHD
Front Spoiler Kit
Part Number:   1128960
Retail Price:     Ã,£250.83
You Pay:         Ã,£213.20
Galaxy (+)"GB" 1.9L Diesel TC(115PS) 5 Door RHD
Rocker Panel Kit
Part Number:   1128961
Retail Price:     Ã,£355.00
You Pay:         Ã,£301.75
Galaxy (+)"GB" 1.9L Diesel TC(115PS) 5 Door RHD
Rear Bumper Skirt Kit
Part Number:   1128962
Retail Price:     Ã,£189.17
You Pay:         Ã,£160.80
Galaxy (+)"GB" 1.9L Diesel TC(115PS) 5 Door RHD
Adhesive
Part Number:   1219837
Retail Price:     Ã,£58.93
You Pay:         Ã,£50.09
Galaxy (+)"GB" 1.9L Diesel TC(115PS) 5 Door RHD
Sealant Gun
Part Number:   1203232(was 5029631)
Retail Price:     Ã,£89.63
You Pay:         Ã,£76.19
________________________________________
Postage & Packing
Parcel Force Large Item Service Ã,£34.00
________________________________________
Prices subject to VAT @ 20%
________________________________________
Total Cost:  Ã,£1,003.24

welcome to the forum,

460 bhp,BEJESUS. ;)

bet you got some looks on burn ups? 8)

Quote from: gregers on February 21, 2012, 08:54:54 PM
welcome to the forum,

460 bhp,BEJESUS. ;)

bet you got some looks on burn ups? 8)

It fooking flew ;) she was a tracker so used to burn it up all the time even with a 4 wheeler system.

thanks for the part numbers but "Ã,£%$Ã,£ is that expensive what are the chances of finding a scrapper with it on do you think?

My Alhamb only has 115bhp but it is excellent at going up hills. Yesterday I had to go up a really really steep short hill, it must have been 45 degrees or so. I was really scared that the car would start sliding down the hill or that the gearbox would start going wrong but the gold old Alhamb and itââ,¬â,,¢s cross climate tyres steadily climbed that hill with ease. I have been very impressed with my Alhamb and those tyres are excellent too.

8-)

I have done a few bits to mine

18" A5 wheels ( with 245s they protrude a little)
PD150 GT1749VB turbo
PD150 AL injectors
PD130/150 80mm maf and intake pipes
PD150 3 bar map sensor
Aftermarket front mount intercooler( 115 / 130 will no longer fit and all custom pipe work as well)
EGR full delete ( did it while fitting a new camshaft as there is a lot of hardware for potential issues)
Double din touch screen android head unit
6 dial clocks and stalk( I have reference model :( )
rear view mirror camera

It mapped to around 190 - 200bhp running 1.65 bar not bad as started life as a 115

I have cruise control stalk  to fit and bought a Chinese loom but it must for LHD as it's too short so I will need to extend it.

Next I wan't to fit subtle mood lighting to the strip that runs along the dash and some high quality lowering springs 35 - 50mm

I bet that car is lovely now with all those enhancements!!

In terms of the EGR removal, is that tricky to do please. My friend says the EGR unit puts soot back into the engine which sounds like a terrible thing to do. Do u know how much soot it puts into the engine and how much better the car goes without this strange sounding function.

Thank u

The amount of carbon build up in my EGR valve and intake manifold was horrendous, I lost a lot of port size.

you can just flatten the EGR map to 850 without touching any hardware, but while I was removing the turbo I decided to do away with the EGR cooler and pipes, EGR solinoid, and re join the 2 coolant hoses.

I will try and upload some pics.

Some pics on my google drive

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1c2Zh06qaLx-5IY_zDCT7iTsD6_vruLXc?usp=sharing

I thought it wasn't uploading images due too size but it's uploaded some, that's why I put them on my drive, can't edit pst to remove attachments.

Thank you very much for all those lovely pictures, what a great! I really enjoyed looking at those, thank you!

I think this sort of procedure may be quite technical, how much would a garage charge to do it do u think?

I make lots of short journeys so it would be good to remove things that cause soot!

If you buy a cheap mpps tool you can disable it via software which I can do for free for you and add a little power at the same time :).

If you wan't to clean the egr it's relatively simple to remove it's just a little awkward, the pictures of mine are doing the camshaft / turbo / injectors ect, but when resembling it was pointless for me to fit all the extra associated egr pipe work but you don't have to remove it to disable it via software, don't even have to lift the bonnet.

I still have my egr physically in place  for the asv feature it's just blanked and the solenoid that controls it and vacuum lines deleted, this way I had a fault code but easy to disable in winols, again via software as mentioned above no fault codes or anything to unplug

There's no real performance gains deleting the egr but if you see the carbon build up it produces it's definitely worth while disabling, I have read if there was one downside the car takes slightly longer to warm up but every one I have done is not noticeable.

Another few mods I forgot

Back box delete with a twin tip I got off amazon for Ã,£4( sound did not change )
Seat leon cupra steering wheel from a mk1 which was plug and play

The exhaust pipe on your lovely Alhamb looks amazing!!

@vectrac20tsri
I assume that safety is not a priority to you because you just cut away a big piece out of an important bumper part?

Out of curiosity how is cutting away a part of lower balance for exhaust a safety issue? My car came from factory similar to that for the tail pipe outlet

Hey,
Sorry, I meant the part in the front bar where the front bumper fits over that he cut out for the bigger intercooler.

Oh right with you now I didnââ,¬â,,¢t see the picture with modified crash structure I just saw the bumper part and the comment about exhaust and put 2 and 2 together.

Yes apart of the crash bar has been removed, but the chassis legs are still tied, crumple zones are still intact.

Let's be honest that piece of metal won't be doing nothing in a high speed crash, also would need a pretty direct hit to the centre and by a narrow object to even be a effect in a low speed crash.

Also the rot on most alhambra/Sharan/galaxy's is far more dangerous.

Thanks for your concern but I'll take my chances, it's a 3rd car with only 190bhp, nothing in comparison to my 380bhp / 750nm 640d 😆

Sounds like itââ,¬â,,¢s all been very well thought out!

I once had a Ford Focus which was quite rusty, I went around a double roundabout quite fast and bits underneath the car snapped off and the car wobbled like crazy, it was mental. After that experience I am very wary of rust now.

This BMW car of yours sounds very impressive. It sounds like it has a very strong engine what with all that torque. I find having more torque makes me a much calmer driver, it makes for a very smooth and easy ride. What do u think of BMWs generally. A friend of mine says they arenââ,¬â,,¢t that good except for the engines but the people who actually own them seem to love them.

balloons

Quote from: SirDavidAlhambra on August 02, 2020, 01:35:07 PM
Sounds like itââ,¬â,,¢s all been very well thought out!

Humm you really cant say that! You also cant really say the legs are tied together!!

Without wanting to sound rude this is the problem with the way the law is in the country, it allows anyone with zero qualifications to somewhat arrogantly assume they know more then the designers and engineers. The front crash bar has about 20% to do with your safety, it's designed to spread the force of a crash over a large surface area and dissipate it down the chassis legs thus protecting whatever you hit. With the little metal you have left, a 3mph tap would fold that, 15mph+ and you'll shear what little remains which means you'll have two metal battering rams that will pierce the cabin and anyone inside it when you hit them.

End of the day the law allows you to drive it like that though so you can do as you see fit and take the reprocussions should anything go wrong. As an ex assessor all I will say is that I've seen a LOT of badly modded cars that caused serious injury and sadly deaths where we have refused payouts and in almost all of those cases the owner has seen some jail time along with the fine that typically goes with it so I would urge you to have another think about how to mount the IC in a way that allows you to restore the crash structure.  :-\

Oh my goodness!!

John, please take a moment just to consider the feedback from your fellow experts and friends here, make sure your car is completely safe!! We know the inter cooler has to go somewhere but there is nothing more important to us than your safety. Mirez is an EXTREMELY experienced Alhamb expert (I know you are an expert too) and we should take note of what he says, he cares about you like we all do and think about other road users too if you were ever to be involved in a prang.

Please please for the sake of safety make sure this lovely car of yours is 100% safe to drive, could you maybe weld something behind the inter cooler to make that bumper bar really strong again for example.

There is a motto in the car industry, ââ,¬Å"Safety First, Alwaysââ,¬Â. No matter what you do to your car, never trade off safety even one little bit because metal can be replaced but you cannot. Also we know you are almost certainly a really good driver given your enthusiast status and deep deep knowledge of engines but you have to watch out for other road users too, there are a lot of bad drivers out there.

Sorry for going on but mirez really knows his stuff, he helped me with that radiator cap problem when it was driving me nuts and Iââ,¬â,,¢m pretty good at that sort of thing if I say so myself, at least give it some thought maybe my friend?

Thank you and stay safe

With kind regards and sincere friendship

grouphugg [drive]

Quote from: Mirez on August 02, 2020, 06:14:02 PM
Humm you really cant say that! You also cant really say the legs are tied together!!

Without wanting to sound rude this is the problem with the way the law is in the country, it allows anyone with zero qualifications to somewhat arrogantly assume they know more then the designers and engineers. The front crash bar has about 20% to do with your safety, it's designed to spread the force of a crash over a large surface area and dissipate it down the chassis legs thus protecting whatever you hit. With the little metal you have left, a 3mph tap would fold that, 15mph+ and you'll shear what little remains which means you'll have two metal battering rams that will pierce the cabin and anyone inside it when you hit them.

End of the day the law allows you to drive it like that though so you can do as you see fit and take the reprocussions should anything go wrong. As an ex assessor all I will say is that I've seen a LOT of badly modded cars that caused serious injury and sadly deaths where we have refused payouts and in almost all of those cases the owner has seen some jail time along with the fine that typically goes with it so I would urge you to have another think about how to mount the IC in a way that allows you to restore the crash structure.  :-\

Couldnââ,¬â,,¢t agree more with the way it is in this country with people who are not qualified to mess about with cars, if I had a pound for the amount of times I saw shoddy workmanship done by an owner when I used to work in dealers I wouldnââ,¬â,,¢t still be going to work every day thatââ,¬â,,¢s for sure. Couple of my favourites are brake pads with lining towards pistons and on an old calibra a left hand brake caliper fitted to right hand side so bleed nipple was at the bottom.
To be fair there are a lot of garages that employ so called mechanics who get paid to perform such shoddy work!
Thatââ,¬â,,¢s why I only have garages change tyres and do MOTââ,¬â,,¢s everything else I sort myself.

Also with the crash structure like that not only is the integrity compromised but the edges would come straight through bumper in event of hitting a pedestrian and chop them up. Where as with it original yes they would still get hurt but injuries could be far less serious

Not qualified? please don't jump to conclusions as I'm positive I have more mechanical knowledge than most on here, You don't like my way of doing things that's fine but don't assume your a technician because you have done a few retrofits.

I have replaced both shafts and intermediate, new smf flywheel and clutch, new cam, injectors, turbo, thermostats, timing belt kit, sump sealant, temp sensor housing, cam sensor, the list goes on, all stretch bolts replaced, all gaskets either oem or elring, all new genuine bosh injector seals, oem injector set screws all torqued up to spec and not catastrophically failed or cause death.

Don't tarnish me with "Not qualified",  It's a 3rd vehicle and will do as I please, if you don't like it don't view my photo's or read my posts, click back and be on with your day.

Let's be clear, I've not jumped to any conclusions as unless you have a formal qualification you are not qualified - having good mechanical knowledge does not make you qualified, you could be the best mechanic in the world yet if you don't have a qualification then no, you remain unqualified.

Likewise, knowing how to change any of the parts you've listed does not make you qualified in anything to do with vehicle design, crash dynamics or safety. At best, it makes you KNOWLEDGEABLE on mechanics but again, not QUALIFIED. A qualification is exactly that so don't get the hump because you are unqualified and someones called you that. 99% of home mechanics are unqualified however most are highly knowledgeable but if you have any FORMAL qualifications in this field then please feel free to post them up, but unless they are in vehicle design or crash dynamics then you'll remain UNQUALIFIED in this arena.

Your MECHANICAL work is not relevant to the point you are arguing, nobody on here is saying your mechanical work is likely to cause injury or death as that would be near impossible to ascertain over a forum. What we are saying is your FABRICATION work, ie the way you have cut into a structural safety cell and left metal edges exposed is dangerous. If you WERE QUALIFIED in that area you would know this.

Finally and for the record, no I don't think I am a technician but I am a qualified engineer. I have a masters degree is Mechanical Engineering, along with being an accredited VSI and former accredited VDA. I've also done design consultation work with Vauxhall, MANN and JLR which makes me both KNOWLEDGEABLE and QUALIFIED in the field to which I'm commenting.

Quoteit allows anyone with zero qualifications to somewhat arrogantly assume they know more then the designers and engineers.

You'll also find @johnnyroper is qualified in this field, which means you are trying to argue your point somewhat arrogantly against designers and engineers and hence, you've proven my point for me. Thanks ;)

Now, how about you click "Reply" and post either:
"Sorry, you are all right and I'll have a think about changing it so the rest of the awesome mods I've done to my car aren't outshone by this one dangerous omission".
or
"Sorry, you are all right but whilst the vehicle is dangerous the law allowed me to do it and I'm happy to take the consequences. Thanks your input though fellas."

We'll all have a beer then and crack on with life as the rest of your car looks really good and I'd love to know more about some of the vehicles you have :)

PS, I own this forum so I'll do as I please with the posts people put up on it.  cheers

Yep I am indeed qualified having done years of college when leaving school, that being said no longer used in motor trade but they let me work on multimillion pound bi mode trains so it must still count for something.

Bought for a passat B5 as can not find them for the alhambra and are totally different.

Use of a dremel, epoxy and plastic melting( for the stop) and they turned out ok, also the heat and position use a potentiometer so finding the right position was a pain, but the A/C comes on when you select windscreen and could feel the change from hot to cold.

Reason for carbon is all my trim is worn, done most of the interior in vinyl and it's 10x nicer.

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How much was the back box delete on ur alhambra pls and have u got a link