My 2005 1.9 tdi Sharan has a limp indicator stalk, it means that it is hard to find the neutral position and so it's hard for me to cancel indicators.
  Unless anyone here has a more simple solution I assume it means I need to replace the stalk.
Has anyone here done this on a Sharan, it obviously means taking off the steering wheel with airbag and the dreaded clock spring.
If I'm going to do this I may consider upgrading the stalk to one with cruise control for cruise retrofit, I assume this means adding a new wiring loom and then getting someone to switch it on with vagcom.
Anyone got any experience in this?

Most of the time, you don't need to remove the steering wheel, you remove the shrouds upper and lower, unplug it and then it either unclips or unscrews and slides up off behind the wheel.

Though I haven't done it on a Sharan or a mk2, and looking at the ones listed on ebay it does look like its a steering wheel off job unfortunately.

@Mirez might be the person to answer your adding CC query.

Looking at this, maybe it would be possible without removing the steering wheel

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265844941493

I'd suggest removing the cowlings and having a look to be your best bet there?

I did this upgrade years ago. At first is is scary to remove the airbag and steering wheel but to me it was a straight forward job. If you disconnect the battery a while before you start the job an you mark the splines and the center lock nut to keep the right position and torque, nothing can go wrong I think.

The hardest part is feeding the new wiring to the ECU in the engine bay through an existing grommet.

I bought the stalk and wiring as a kit on ebay and it came with instructions.

activating the cruise control is also very easy with a cheap vag com cable from ebay.

Thanks for your responses.
To update everyone, I have now replaced the indicator switch and it does involve removing the steering wheel, I followed a description on this site, plus I looked at a youtube video for Golf Mk4, which has identical steering wheel assembly.

It was all quite straightforward except now when I turn the steering wheel there is a clicking noise which I think must be the clock spring, I was careful not to move clock spring when it was off but it's possible it did move a few degrees.
No airbag lights stay on - so that is good, but it does click now.

Also I fitted an indicator switch that has cruise control but as yet I don't have a loom- if I can get a loom for a reasonable price I may do this upgrade when the weather improves.

I believe when reinstalling the parts you need to lock or clamp down the switch and/or the clock as close as possible against the steering wheel. So first tighten the steering wheel nut, then push the switch and/ or the clock spring against the steering wheel before tightening. Or was it the switch against the clock spring, I don't remember so good.

I believe the clicking is a system to prevent the clock spring from turning free while it is removed.

I have known the cowling around the steering wheel to cause clicking if its not back on quite right.

Thanks Orbis
You solved it, the new switch was not clamped close enough to the clock spring.

I have loosened the switch clamp and pushed it nearer the clock spring and the clicking has disappeared.

One more problem to solve. Since replacing this switch the parking sensors have stopped working. The parking sensor dash light comes on and makes a long beep when Parking Sensors are engaged. But the sensors don't tell me when I'm getting close to something.
Could this be something to do with having the battery disconnected for a few hours?

 

Dobutful. More likely the poor weather has shown up a dodgy sensor or killed it. One of mine is doing the same intermittently.

VCDS is the answer - have a look and you can scan for codes (likely you have one being logged, could be back or front if you have both sets) or check the distances with an assistant blocking sensors. Likely one of them either doesn't read at all, or is giving a clearly wrong reading.

Given its beeping to indicate an error, you should have a fault being logged

Note that a disconnected sensor will also cause an error.

If you don't want to go the VCDS route, get another sensor and swap around to see if you can identify a dodgy one by swapping it over with each one (you don't need to push it out of the holder, just unplug and plug loose new sensor in instead).

Check the plugs (back more vunerable for this) that none of the connectors have come off, or any obvious broken wires. Back also much more accessible than the front ones.

Thanks Brian

I have VCDS lite, I'll check it out tomorrow, assuming that its on a controller that VCDS lite will open.

It is accessible with lite - Can't remember which one of the modules, but I looked with Lite last time I needed to look at them.

There are 2 or 3 options for Parking sensors. Its either PDC or parking assist you want I think.

The measuring blocks 000 and 001 or 002 give you front and back values if you have to go that far, though you likely have a fault logged anyway.

The Mk2 sensors use such a burst of ultrasonic, you can normally hear them ticking. Turn the system on, (even in error state they will tick) and put your ear close to each one in turn - you'll probably find the culprit by a lack of 'tick' before doing any IT work :)

I used the car today and after a 20 mile journey, when I parked the parking sensors worked as normal. I've no idea why they suddenly started working without me doing anything, but I'm very happy they are working now.

Mine plays up like that - sometimes its fine, others it will beep error at you. I suspect one of the sensors in mine has water ingress, as can't see why it would be like that otherwise. Though it could just be old and playing up due to age as well.

Are hand signals still legal hehe