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Green mould and fungi removal from rubber parts

Started by regw, March 29, 2022, 03:30:23 PM

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Been giving the old thing bit of a spring clean/tart up and
anyone got any cunning wheezes to remove the above using household materials?
As well as bleach and typical household cleaning stuff
I also have white spirit, meths and WD40 to hand.

TIA


A decent jet-wash should be all you need, even if you have to use a forecourt one just to do the rubbers then I would as most chemicals don't place nicely with rubber parts. Water is designed to fall into the doors and out the bottom so you can go to town (within reason) and I've never had a car that didn't scrub up beautifully that way :)
03 Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI 115 Ghia in Spruce Green Metallic
With cream leather interior, Full Bodykit, Remapped at 145bhp, Lowered on 18's
13 Porsche Cayenne 3.0 V6 Diesel in Umber Metallic
262Bhp AWD and Factory fresh...for now!
58 Ford Transit 2.2 TDI 115 in Frozen White
With retrofitted everything except another slidey door! :)
LAUNCH X431 Pad PRO - Scanning & Coding for all makes and models done in Wiltshire in exchange for winegums! :)

As above a good blasting with the jet wash will fetch the green off, did my Alfa the other month after waist seals went green.

I love spraying moss off the rubber seals, it is amazing how much you can blast out with the jet washer
I drive a Seat Alhambra 1.9Tdi which has 115bhp and an automatic gearbox.

I am happy to help you with all your questions. I am not a qualified mechanic but seem to be better at fixing my car than even the most experienced garages.

I have lots of friends here and very much enjoy talking with you all. Always remember, a motor car is a serious tool and should be treated with respect. Put your safety first, always.

In the end I just mixed up a bit of diluted bleach and disinfectant
and scrubbed it into the green and mouldy bits with a stiff nylon brush then nipped up the
local Morrisons car wash to rinse all the muck off.
2 years 1 car wash, not bad going. :-)

Nice one, sounds like it came up nice and clean.
I drive a Seat Alhambra 1.9Tdi which has 115bhp and an automatic gearbox.

I am happy to help you with all your questions. I am not a qualified mechanic but seem to be better at fixing my car than even the most experienced garages.

I have lots of friends here and very much enjoy talking with you all. Always remember, a motor car is a serious tool and should be treated with respect. Put your safety first, always.

Does anybody know how to disconnect the over-centre lock on the rear quarter window/light. so that the whole rubber seal can be accessed, all the way around? I can see that the seals on my vehicle are in need of a good scrub, but access is difficult.

Also, does anybody have views on conditioning rubber seals, once they are clean? I believe that Toyota supply a rubber seal conditioner which turns out to be nothing more that silicone spray. Any thoughts?

April 04, 2022, 03:27:53 PM #7 Last Edit: April 04, 2022, 03:30:01 PM by regw
I'd just use a wee bit of silicon grease (not spray) on the seals
carefully and moderately applied of course you don't want any smearing on the glass.

My quarterlight seals are still a bit mouldy but as I don't know when/if they were ever opened
I'll leave opening them until the summer so if they're sticky or fragile and the '10 minute job' turns into a PITA I'll have bit more leeway and time for solutions.
 

Quote from: Solentview on April 04, 2022, 12:36:52 PMDoes anybody know how to disconnect the over-centre lock on the rear quarter window/light. so that the whole rubber seal can be accessed, all the way around? I can see that the seals on my vehicle are in need of a good scrub, but access is difficult.

Also, does anybody have views on conditioning rubber seals, once they are clean? I believe that Toyota supply a rubber seal conditioner which turns out to be nothing more that silicone spray. Any thoughts?

You can take the latch out fairly easily, theres a single bolt under the cap that goes through the glass, you prise the cover off and undo it. Be aware that once you do so, the glass is unsupported and can be removed from the vehicle completely by just lifting it away from the body of the vehicle. At least I'm fairly sure thats what I found when I investigated it (though for the life of me I can't remember why I needed to remove it in the first place now)

The only thing that might complicate it is if you have the drivers side one to do, as the aerial is on the glass on that side. I'm not sure how easily that comes apart. I'd start on the other side.

Brianh - many thanks, I wondered whether the cap on the outside might be the best place to start. I intend to rope in SWMBO to support the glass panel as and when I can unfasten the latch, and I note your point about starting on the N/S.

Sorry should have been clearer, the cap is on the inside! You can't take it off from outside else people would do that to get inside.

Good idea on the help from outside.

If I get chance later will take a photo and post

April 04, 2022, 08:09:41 PM #11 Last Edit: April 04, 2022, 08:19:22 PM by brianh Reason: broken attachments.
Had a look - this is a MK2 with the powered rear windows, I'm fairly sure I remember removing a cap, which makes me think it must have been the mk1 with the rear manual windows, in either case, the fixing is on the inside as you can see, its a single screw. The outer cap I think has a square piece in the glass to prevent it turning.

Not sure why, but can't get the attachment to attach. In any case, there is a screw on the inside end of the opening bracket going through the glass.

April 05, 2022, 09:17:12 AM #12 Last Edit: April 05, 2022, 02:49:17 PM by Mirez
Humm yeah it doesn't like that attachment at all for some reason. - Resolved a compression issue to fix attachments :)

Open the window fully, then look in behind the mechanism and you should see a small phillips screw which you undo to release the glass. Once undone the glass will part company with the bracket and on most cars, once it comes out about 45* from the body the 'hinge' end will slide out toward the back of the car.
03 Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI 115 Ghia in Spruce Green Metallic
With cream leather interior, Full Bodykit, Remapped at 145bhp, Lowered on 18's
13 Porsche Cayenne 3.0 V6 Diesel in Umber Metallic
262Bhp AWD and Factory fresh...for now!
58 Ford Transit 2.2 TDI 115 in Frozen White
With retrofitted everything except another slidey door! :)
LAUNCH X431 Pad PRO - Scanning & Coding for all makes and models done in Wiltshire in exchange for winegums! :)

Many thanks to Brianh and Mirez - I have disconnected the quarter light lock both sides, given the seals a good scrub and finished off with silicone spray (spray to cloth, cloth to seal!). The rubber seals definitely benefit from some attention, mine were caked with crud and rubbish which I attacked with a narrow wheel brush. Unfortunately, even with the over-centre lock disconnected, mine were reluctant to open very far beyond the 'normal' position, and the glass panel showed no sign of willingness to let go of the hinge arrangement, but at least the top and trailing edges are cleaner now. 

Strange - though maybe your late mk2 is different to the earlier models, I've definitely had one of mine out previously and it came out fairly easily once the lock was unscrewed. At least you have it sorted though.