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                                                                   GENERAL
The VW sourced 1.9 TDI PD (Pumpe Duse) engine used in the Galaxy is generally well regarded as a robust unit capable of running to high mileages provided that the necessary maintenance has been carried out. As the camshaft on this engine is belt driven, one of the scheduled items requiring renewal periodically is the timing belt. Due to the design of this engine, in which the fuel is metered out at extremely high pressure by unit injectors which are driven via rocker shafts from the main camshaft (instead of a separate high pressure diesel pump), the timing belt on this engine is subject to more stress than the average timing belt which serves only to turn the camshaft, making correct maintenance even more essential. The water pump is also driven by the timing belt and as such, although not a scheduled maintenance item, it is good practice to renew it at the same time as the belt, as should it fail or leak in service, the timing belt will need to be removed and renewed again in order to replace it. Once the necessary items have been removed to allow replacement of the timing belt, the water pump only requires an additional 3 bolts to be unscrewed in order to remove it, plus the coolant to be drained. To the best of my knowledge the scheduled belt renewal interval is 40,000 miles (or 4 years) rising to 60,000 miles on post 2003 models, however I am unable to confirm at exactly what build date the change in schedule occurred though the Haynes manual suggests it is around 06/2003, also I am not sure if it was only the mileage interval which changed or if the time interval also changed from 4 years to 6 years at the same time.

Please note, this is an involved task that is NOT to be carried out lightly by the faint hearted, you MUST be confident of your ability to accurately set the valve timing and belt tension, failure to do this correctly may result in major engine damage! Additionally, some special tools are required as well as access to a decent trolley jack, draining the coolant is also invariably a messy task.

Good practice is to renew the timing belt, tensioner and idler as a kit, as well as the water pump. Ford do not sell a timing belt kit for this model of Galaxy, they only sell all of the components individually which ends up working out quite expensive, so for that reason I opted for a Dayco kit from GSF, Dayco is a well known automotive belt manufacturer and probably also an O.E supplier, at the time of writing their timing belt kit to fit my Galaxy was a tad under Ã,£90 including VAT and came with belt, tensioner, idler and locknuts for the tensioner and idler. The water pump was a separate item, which I also purchased from GSF at a cost of approx. Ã,£40 at the time of writing, made by Airtex, which are also apparently an O.E supplier. However, the first of their water pumps let me down by beginning to leak after about 5000 miles service, it was only 8 months old. I'm not 100% sure of the source of the leak but it seemed to be coming from the core plug on the casting rather than the shaft seal, but either way, the pump had to be replaced again, as well as the timing belt which did not make my day! [bash] I sincerely hope the replacement pump of theirs fares better or it'll be the last of their products I buy!

                                                                   PROCEDURE
             (Torque figures & link to alternator belt routing diagram are at the end of the procedure)

NOTE- any references in this article referring to arrows or highlighted items in the pictures refer to the image directly above the text unless otherwise stated. Also, the fastener sizes documented here are what my '54 reg model is fitted with, there may have been variations to this over the production lifespan of the Mk2 Galaxy.


Before commencing, ensure you have all of the necessary tools and parts to hand- as previously mentioned, a couple of special tools are required, the most critical being the crankshaft locking tool. It is possible to change timing belts (and it frequently happens) without using locking tools by adopting the 'paint pot technology' method and just marking the position of the crank/cam sprockets relative to the engine block, however, this relies on the timing having been correctly set previously and does not prevent the sprockets from rotating whilst fitting/ tensioning the belt, for that reason, it is not a technique I would advise or employ myself. The crank locking tool (as well as the other timing belt kit items and the water pump- there are two in the picture- the left one is the original VW part whilst the right one is an Airtex one- the one that leaked in my case!) is shown in image 1 and came in a kit made by Laser which I got off of [eBay], the laser part number 
for this kit is 3978-see here- at the time of writing this kit cost approx Ã,£15, it also comes with a locking pin (the other special tool required-shown in the same picture) for the camshaft, however, I found this pin to be too tight to use and ended up using a pin out of my generic timing tool set, this pin is fractionally smaller in diameter and was a much easier fit, a suitable drill bit could also be used.

[attachimg=14]
^Image 1- Timing belt kit, water pump, timing tools etc.

The procedure I have outlined was carried out on a '54 plate 130 PS model, to my knowledge all Mk2 TDI's should be similar, however, some of the earlier models (up until around 2002 build date I believe) were fitted with hydraulic tensioners which are slightly different to the sprung loaded manual tensioner fitted to the later Galaxies (mine included) and therefore have a slightly different tensioning procedure, which is not covered here but involves setting the tensioner backplate arm a specified distance from the tensioner 'housing' (the plastic timing belt enclosure). For this reason there is more than one cambelt kit available depending on build date, although the timing belt itself should be the same across all Mk2 TDI variants.

In short, to access the timing belt for renewal it is necessary to jack up the front offside of the car and then remove (in this approximate order) the offside front wheel, engine undertray (if fitted, I didn't have one fitted at the time I carried out this task therefore I can't cover that particular procedure here), airbox, auxiliary drive belt and tensioner, offside engine mounting, crankshaft pulley and the timing belt covers. If you are replacing the water pump then the coolant also needs to be drained.

To start, the offside front (driver's) wheel needs to be removed, so begin by jacking up the offside front of the car (not on the sills- the front jacking point is on the box section inside of the sill- in the area indicated by a little arrow on the rocker panel), if you are not using an air gun or similar to remove the wheel bolts then crack the bolts off before raising the wheel off of the ground. If you jacked the car up with a trolley jack then you will need this to jack the engine with later so use an axle stand as support (I placed mine under the front subframe where the lower arm rear mounting bolt sits, as using an axle stand on the box section would likely damage it). With the axle stand in place then you can remove the front wheel, and if fitted, the engine undertray.



[attachimg=1]
^Image 2- Draining coolant & jacking the engine
    1) ONLY if you are planning on replacing the water pump, the coolant needs to be drained. There is
            no drain plug on the radiator so the lower coolant hose will need to be removed. On the 130 & 150ps
            TDI's the lower hose is as seen in the above image, and is removed by releasing the metal spring clip-
            red arrow) with a small screwdriver, and then gently easing the rigid plastic pipe union away from the
            radiator- ensure you have a large drain pan with a minimum a 5 litre capacity ready to capture the
            inevitable deluge! On the 90 & 115ps TDI's the coolant pipe layout may be slightly different but the
            requirement is the same- remove the lower hose from the radiator to drain the coolant.

        2) Next, to avoid straining the intercooler boost pipe when jacking the engine, remove the jubilee clip
            from the rubber pipe where it meets the rigid aluminium pipe (green arrow) and pull the rubber pipe
            clear, it may be worth putting some rag into both open pipe ends to prevent any oil leaking out or 
            debris getting in!

        3) Though you aren't removing the engine mount just yet, it's worth getting the jack in position- in my
            opinion the best place to position the saddle of the jack is the area I've circled orange, where the sump
            meets the pipe carrier bracket, this area should be fairly strong, though use a block of wood or similar if
            your jack doesn't have a rubber contact pad, otherwise you'll end up gouging the sump and/or bracket.
            Raise the jack so it just takes a little weight off of the engine mount and you can proceed to the next
            step below.



[attachimg=2]
^Image 3- View of the airbox area highlighting items requiring removal
             With the above steps completed then the airbox can be removed:
         1) Remove the retaining bolt (red arrow)- 5mm internal hex (allen) key
         2) Disconnect the MAF sensor (connector circled blue) and unclip the cable from clip (circled yellow)
         3) Pull vacuum pipe from retaining lugs on the side of the airbox (vacuum pipe indicated by orange
            arrow)
         4) Expand the spring clip (circled green) on airbox outlet pipe (a pair of spring clip pliers- sat on the
             rocker cover in the above image is very useful here) and pull the outlet pipe off of the MAF sensor.

    The airbox can now be pulled clear- note that it may be necessary to remove the bulb access cover
    from the front panel to open up enough space to wiggle the airbox free (this cover is visible in the above
    image between the airbox and driver's side headlight).



[attachimg=3]
^Image 4- View of the auxiliary drive belt tensioner & engine mount
           With the airbox clear, the auxiliary drive belt and tensioner can be removed- the tensioner is released by
           using a 16mm open spanner against the flat on the tensioner highlighted by the pink arrow. There are
           two holes for a pin to lock the tensioner in the 'off' position which can be seen under close examination
           of the above picture- a hole in the centre of the 'flat' and a corresponding hole in the main tensioner
           body. Make sure the spanner is properly on the tensioner flat when releasing it or it may spring back at
           you! With the tensioner released you can remove the belt, note it's routing and that it is a double sided
           belt as it runs on the reverse side to drive the air con pulley. With the belt removed the tensioner can be
           unbolted- it's held on by the 3x 13mm bolts circled blue.

           Once the tensioner is removed you can start removing the engine mount- make sure you have taken the
           load off of the mount with the jack first! Start by removing the three 16mm bolts that go into the cast
           iron engine bracket (circled green in the above image) and then the two 16mm nuts (circled yellow) that
           extend from the body mounted portion of the mount. With these nuts removed you can remove the
           aluminium bracket, leaving you with a view similar to below:



[attachimg=4]
^Image 5- Engine mount with aluminium bracket removed
           The next stage is to remove the body mounted portion of the engine mount (this is to improve access   
           to the timing belt & sprockets etc. once the covers have been removed), it is held in place by 3x torx
           headed bolts which are removed with a size 55 male torx socket. The bolts are circled yellow in the
           above image, the left hand one is partly obscured by the rubber block but this block just lifts out of it's
           housing once the aluminium bracket is removed.

           With the body portion of the mounting removed, the final item of the mounting to wangle out is the
           large cast iron plate (which is surprisingly heavy and cumbersome!), most of the bolts retaining this are
           accessed from the top but one must be removed from underneath. The top bolts requiring removal are
           circled orange and purple, the 3 right hand (orange circled) bolts are 13mm, the lower left hand one
           (circled purple) is 16mm, some jacking up of the engine will need to take place in order to get a shallow
           socket & ratchet onto the bolts- particularly in the case of the purple circled 16mm bolt- the
           engine will need to be jacked up far as is possible to get a socket and ratchet onto it, or if your jack
           doesn't go high enough you'll have to make do with a spanner. Don't at this point remove the
           16mm bolt indicated by the blue arrow, this bolt secures a separate mounting stub and if you try to
           remove the bracket with this stub still attached it will be very tricky, if not impossible! It may be possible
           to leave this stub in place for the whole procedure but I took it out once the main bracket had been
           removed in order to maximise access into the timing belt area.



[attachimg=5]
^Image 6- View of the crankshaft pulley & lower engine mounting bracket area
           With all of the top accessible bracket mounting bolts removed, the lower bolt can be accessed through
           the wheelarch by lowering the engine down with the jack, the lower bolt is again 16mm (circled purple).
           Once this bolt is removed, the whole bracket can be lifted clear from the top. It is also worth unbolting
           the power steering pipe retaining bracket (13mm headed bolt, circled yellow).

           Next, the crankshaft pulley can be removed. Sometimes the bolts in the centre of the pulley are
           obscured by a protective plastic cap fitted in the centre recess of the pulley which simply pulls out. The
           pulley itself is held in place by 4x 6mm hex key bolts (circled red) which will be pretty tight to shift- with
           the engine lowered I was able to get a battery gun on the bolts, failing this an impact driver would make
           this part easier, though they will crack off by hand with a bit of force if necessary! Note the locating nub
           on the crankshaft sprocket and corresponding hole in the pulley- arrowed blue.
           


[attachimg=6]
^Image 7- Timing belt covers as viewed from the top
           With the crankshaft pulley out of the way, the timing belt covers can be removed. There are 3 covers in
           total, the top one is plastic and clipped on, the lower two are metal and bolted. Remove the top cover
           first of all, which is secured by two spring clips (arrowed yellow- the left hand one is out of sight in the
           picture but is in the approximate area indicated by the arrow). With the clips free, lift the cover up and
           off. Note the tabs and cutouts (circled green) which locate the middle and top covers properly
           relative to eachother when installed.



[attachimg=7]
^Image 8- Timing belt covers as viewed from underneath
           The middle and bottom two covers are held on by a total of 5x 10mm bolts. The middle cover must be
           removed first, and is secured by the 3 bolts that are circled pink. It can be removed from either
           underneath or up top. The bottom cover is secured by the 2 bolts circled in light blue, and is most 
           easily removed through the wheelarch.

           With the covers all removed, you now have your first glimpse at the timing belt itself and associated
           idler, tensioner, sprockets and water pump etc, as illustrated by image 9 below:



[attachimg=8]
^Image 9- Timing belt area as viewed from the top
                             KEY
           Orange arrow- Camshaft sprocket
           Light green arrow- Tensioner pulley
           Light blue arrow- Idler pulley
           Red arrow- Water pump sprocket
           Yellow arrow- Crankshaft sprocket (not easy to see in this view as the teeth are obscured by the
                                 locking tool)

          Having got to this stage, before removing the belt is is essential to lock the crankshaft and
          camshaft sprockets in the correct position. Assuming the timing was set correctly previously the pair
          should 'time up' together, so firstly, rotate the engine by hand by using a 19mm 12 point socket on the
          crankshaft sprocket centre bolt to get the timing marks into position (beware, there will be a lot of
          resistance so a long handled ratchet is better!)- turn the engine only in the normal direction of 
          rotation, which is clockwise when viewed from the timing belt end. The next couple of pictures highlight
          the timing marks used to ensure the sprockets are locked in precisely the right position:


[attachimg=9]
^Image 10- Timing belt area with belt removed



[attachimg=10]
^Image 11- Timing marks on the crank sprocket & locking tool

          Beware that, because the camshaft rotates at half crankshaft speed, it is possible to line up the
          crankshaft sprocket timing marks but the camshaft will be 180^o out, for this reason, aim to
          get the camshaft into approximately the correct position (without going too far!) first, to do this,
          check the location of the toothed window on the camshaft sprocket (circled green in image 10)
          it should be around the 11 o' clock position for the camshaft to be correctly placed in order to lock
          it, if it is down at the 5 o' clock position then you need to rotate the crankshaft another full turn.

          For the crankshaft sprocket to be locked correctly, the timing marks on the tool and sprocket must line
          up perfectly as in image 11 (circled red). Note that the locking tool will slide onto the
          crankshaft sprocket with the sprocket in any position, it is only by the marks aligning that it is     
          locked in the correct position. Furthermore, accurate timing relies on the raised pin that sticks out of the
          back of the crankshaft locking tool (just visible behind the reflection on the plastic packaging in
          image 1- circled orange) locking into the corresponding hole in the aluminium casting above
          and to the rear of the crankshaft sprocket, although I unfortunately do not have a picture of this hole,
          the raised 'stub' it is machined into is circled yellow in image 10, in this view the crankshaft
          locking tool is fully located & therefore the pin is engaged in the corresponding hole.

          So to recap, for the crankshaft to be properly locked, both the pin on the back face of the crankshaft
          locking tool must be engaged in the corresponding machined hole in the aluminium casting above the
          crankshaft sprocket and the marks on the sprocket and locking tool must line up. If the locking
          tool is correctly inserted it's edge will sit flush with the crankshaft sprocket as in the above pictures, it
          will not protrude. It should now no longer be possible to rotate the crankshaft.

          With the crankshaft locked, you should be able to slide the locking pin into the camshaft sprocket- the
          pin slides into the elongated slot at approx. the 7 o' clock position (make sure the 'toothed' window is at
          the approx. 11 o' clock position first!), circled red in image 10. As previously mentioned, I
          found the 6mm pin in the Laser kit was too tight, it fitted ok whilst the engine was warm but when cold it
          was so tight I decided not to use it. Instead I used a pin out of my generic timing pin set which was
          fractionally smaller in diameter, this was a much easier fit! If the timing was correctly set prior to
          commencing, once the crankshaft is locked the camshaft locking pin should push in with some
          resistance- make sure you push it home fully, for this to be the case I would estimate approx.
          40mm of the pin needs to disappear into the camshaft hub/ sprocket, as the pin passes through the
          camshaft sprocket and then the hub underneath before engaging in a hole in the cylinder head.

          If the pin does not push in with a little effort, don't force it. Make sure the toothed window on the
          camshaft sprocket is in approximately the correct position (as outlined several paragraphs above) and
          that the two prongs/ tangs that form the pickup for the camshaft position sensor are roughly lining up
          with the arrow on the plastic timing belt rear cover (at approximately the 3 o' clock position, circled
          orange in image 10). If it looks close to where it should be, rotate the camshaft
          independently from the sprocket by releasing the 3x 13mm bolts- circled green in image 15
          - that surround the camshaft sprocket centre bolt and then carefully rotate the camshaft as
          necessary either clockwise or anticlockwise* by means of the 18mm headed centre bolt (*- as long as it
          is only a small amount of rotation!) to get the pin to push in easily.

          Once you are happy that both the camshaft and crankshaft are correctly locked, you can remove the
          timing belt. To do this, before removing the belt firstly crack off but do not remove or loosen any further
          the 3x 13mm camshaft sprocket bolts (unless you've already done this in order to get the locking pin to
          fit as described in the above paragraph) that surround the larger 18mm centre bolt- do not
          attempt to loosen the centre bolt! Next, release the tensioner pulley nut (15mm- circled red in
          image 15) and ensure it releases the belt tension as you loosen it. With the nut removed, slide
          the tensioner pulley off of it's stud. Then, remove the 13mm idler pulley centre nut (arrowed yellow in
          the below image) and slide this off of it's stud also. You should now be able to work the belt free from
          the crank, cam and water pump sprockets, leaving you with a view like image 10.
           

[attachimg=11]
^Image 12- Timing belt area & water pump as viewed from below
         Only if you are renewing the water pump, with the timing belt removed (ignore the fact that it is
          still fitted in the above picture), you can release the water pump bolts. There are 3 of them in total
          (10mm head), 2 of which are circled orange in image 12 above. The third (top) bolt can
          just be made out in image 15, circled orange. Don't remove the bolts fully to begin
          with, as, no matter how much coolant you were able to drain earlier by removing the lower radiator hose,
          a load more will drain out now! To prevent a deluge, slacken the 3 bolts enough to loosen the water
          pump slightly so that coolant begins to trickle out from the bottom, and place your drain pan used
          earlier (ensuring it's still got a few litres spare capacity as you'll get several more litres of coolant out by
          removing the water pump!) underneath to catch as much coolant as possible. Unfortunately, it doesn't
          matter how careful you are at this stage, some coolant will end up on the floor, and you'll likely find
          your trolley jack that's supporting the engine is sat right where the drain pan needs to be, so make sure
          you've got a load of rag or similar to mop up the spillage!


[attachimg=12]
^Image 13- View of the water pump orifice (with pump removed)- note the thermostat is visible!
          Once you've let as much coolant drain as possible, you can fully remove the 3 bolts and withdraw the
          pump. Ensure that the sealing O-ring seating surface on the engine block is clean and dry (it's the
          bright/ uncorroded metal 'ring' surrounding the water pump opening in the above image) and then you
          can fit the new pump (the 3x water pump retaining bolt holes in the engine block are circled red in the
          above picture), ensuring that the new O-ring is correctly fitted and seated in it's groove (the O-ring is
          visible on the right hand pump in image 1, arrowed yellow- you'll need to click on the image
          to see this), and that the pump is orientated correctly (the protruding stub with the bolt hole for the
          timing belt cover should be to the left of the sprocket at approx. 10 o' clock position). You can refit and
          tighten the 3 bolts (torque: 10nm). Make sure the pump rotates smoothly, and that any remaining
          residual coolant on the engine block/ timing belt rear covers/ crankshaft sprocket etc is soaked up with
          some rag before fitting the new timing belt.


[attachimg=13]
^Image 14- View of the tensioner showing locating arm & corresponding cutout in cylinder head
          With the water pump refitted (if applicable), you can now begin refitting the timing belt. Even with the
          tensioner fully slackened, it can be quite a fiddle to fit the belt over all of the sprockets and pulleys. Also,
          it may take a few attempts to position the belt in the right position on the camshaft sprocket relative to
          the crankshaft sprocket in order to keep the timing correct. For me, the best way to put the belt on is to
          leave the idler pulley off until last (as this allows a little extra slackness in the belt), remove fully the 3
          outer 13mm bolts from the camshaft sprocket (circled green in image 15) so that the
          sprocket is free to be removed from the hub, fit the belt onto the crankshaft & water pump sprockets
          first, then pull the camshaft sprocket clear of the hub (the locking pin will need removing to do this but
          removing the sprocket will not affect the timing), fit the belt over it in the right position, partly slide the
          tensioner onto it's stud and ease the belt over the guide ridge on the front of the tensioner wheel, and
          then refit the camshaft sprocket onto the hub- this will take a little force, and the tensioner needs to be
          slid fully home onto the stud (the studs for the tensioner and idler pulleys are arrowed blue in
          image 10) as you refit the cam sprocket- note the tensioner locating arm and corresponding
          slot/window in the cylinder head/ rear timing belt cover (circled red in the above image), this
          must be correctly located! If you've got the belt positioned correctly on the camshaft sprocket,
          the timing pin when refitted should be sat fairly central within it's elongated window in the sprocket, you
          can now refit the 3x 13mm bolts, which should also be central-ish within their elongated holes (see
          image 15 below), though bear in mind the sprocket will tend to rotate slightly anticlockwise as
          tension is applied to the belt. Do not fully tighten the cam sprocket bolts at this point however, the
          sprocket must be free to rotate as the belt is tensioned. Refit/ install the idler pulley if you have not yet
          done so and tighten the locknut.


[attachimg=15]
^Image 15- Belt tensioning window- pointer indicating optimum belt tension
           Once you're happy the belt is sat on the correct teeth of the cam sprocket to keep the cam timing
           correct, the belt can be tensioned. One important point to note is that tensioning should only ever be
           carried out on a cold engine for accuracy, as tensioning a belt on a warm engine may give a false
           reading, due to the expansion of the metal engine block and components when warm. Tensioning itself
           is accomplished by using a 6mm internal hex key* in the tensioner- arrowed yellow in image 14
           - and rotating the eccentric central collar (the bit that slides over the stud) clockwise. If a new
           tensioner was installed, the tensioner itself usually comes with a wire locking pin in it which must be
           removed before you can do this. As you rotate the tensioner clockwise, you will see the tension
           indicator arrow start to move towards the window cutout (arrowed yellow in image 15).
           When the belt is at optimum tension, this pointer should be dead central within this window. It is worth
           noting however that the action of tightening the tensioner locknut and camshaft sprocket bolts once
           the belt is tensioned will likely alter the tension a little so you may need to set the tension slightly slack
           or tight before tightening said nuts/ bolts to take this into account, a bit of trial and error is required
           here. You must also keep force applied to the hex key in the tensioner whilst tightening the tensioner
           locknut to keep the pointer in the right place.

           (*- You will also see 2 small circular holes- 1 either side of the hex key opening on the tensioner, this is 
                 for a special tool which can also be used to adjust the tensioner, however, this is just an alternative 
                 to the hex key method and infact in my opinion using a kex key gives a more positive lock in the
                 tensioner)

           When you're happy that the tension is correct once you've tightened both the tensioner locknut and
           camshaft sprocket bolts, you can remove the crankshaft locking tool and camshaft pin (assuming
           you put it back in after removing/ reinstalling the cam sprocket when fitting the belt- if you did it
           this way), and then turn the crankshaft two complete turns (only in the normal direction of
           rotation- remember, clockwise when looking at the engine from the belt end) until you can reinsert
           the crankshaft locking tool and camshaft pin. What's meant to happen is that when the crankshaft
           is locked in the correct position, the camshaft pin should also slide in easily, however, for whatever
           reason I find the camshaft has always managed to move slightly during the tensioning/ tightening
           up of tensioner locknut and cam sprocket bolts procedure so that the camshaft pin no longer fits. If
           this is the case, by far the easiest thing to do to save having to carry out the whole tensioning
           procedure again (with probably the same end result) is to simply release- not remove- the three
           camshaft sprocket bolts enough so that the camshaft can be rotated ever so slightly without the
           actual sprocket moving. Simply rotate the camshaft slightly with an 18mm spanner/ socket on the
           bolt that sits in the centre of the sprocket until the pin fits easily. Once the pin slides in easily and you
           are happy all is well, then tighten the three cam sprocket bolts again, check that the belt tension has
           not altered and then you can remove the locking tool/pin and rotate the crankshaft another two full
           turns to line it all back up again and recheck that the camshaft pin fits easily when the crankshaft is
           correctly locked. All being well, everything will now be spot on, the belt tension will not have altered and
           still be where you set it and your engine will now be correctly timed up!

           Assuming that all is well, double check that all of the bolts/nuts for the cam sprocket, tensioner, idler
           and water pump (if applicable) are tightened to the correct torques (see the section below) and remove
           the timing tools if still fitted. You can then refit (in the reverse order of removal) the timing belt covers
           (starting with the lower one first and working up, finishing with the top one and ensuring that the
           locating tabs are properly engaged), crankshaft pulley, engine mount (if removed, fit the stub that bolts
           to the engine block via the gap in the timing belt covers first- the hole for which in the timing belt covers
           is visible between the green circles in image 7, then the main cast iron bracket that bolts to
           the engine block- noting that you'll need to raise and lower the engine with the jack accordingly in order
           to get on the upper and lower bolts- you can then refit the body mounted pressed steel bracket and 
           finally the aluminium bracket which holds the body mount to the engine bracket), auxiliary drive belt
           tensioner, the auxiliary belt itself (make sure it's correctly located on the grooves of all the pulleys- if
           you need a routing diagram there's a link at the bottom of the article), the airbox, the front wheel and
           finally don't forget to refit the rubber intercooler pipe to the rigid aluminium section just forward of the
           sump (and secure the jubilee clip!) and also any coolant pipes you have removed in order to drain the
           coolant (if applicable!). It may be worth leaving the undertray off for now until you're satisfied there are
           no leaks or issues. You can now jack up the vehicle on the chassis box section and remove the axle
           stand before letting the vehicle back down again and removing the jack.

           With this done, if you have renewed the water pump you can refill the coolant- I strongly
           recommend you use new coolant here, as apparently used coolant will not protect new
           aluminium surfaces from corrosion (and the water pump casting is aluminium!). The Ford coolant is 
           part no. 1336799 for a 1 litre bottle, it must be diluted though- a 50/50 mix with water is what
           is recommended on the bottle. Because I'm fussy, I bought a 5 litre container of de-ionised water to
           mix the coolant with, by draining the coolant and removing/renewing the water pump I estimate it
           took approx. 6 litres of coolant/water mix to refill the system, once the air had all bled out of it. Fill
           the coolant header tank up to the max mark for now and leave the cap off- the level will drop as the
           air bleeds out of the system.

           Have a final check to ensure everything is fitted and tight and that all tools and obstructions are cleared
           and then..... time for the moment of truth- start it up! All being well it'll start without fuss and with no
           unusual noises. Leave it to idle for a good 15 mins or so to allow the engine to warm up a bit and to
           hopefully bleed some air from the coolant system, ensuring you keep the coolant topped up as the level
           drops. In truth though, as the diesel engine never warms up fully at idle and whilst not moving, you'll
           need (in my opinion) to take it for a run to get the temperature gauge up to 90 degrees C and to
           get the thermostat to open to bleed all of the air out (you could try revving the engine with the vehicle
           stationary but I find with my Galaxy that from cold, it takes a couple miles of driving even with load on
           the engine to get the temperature gauge to lift off of minimum so I've no idea how long it would take
           revving it at standstill). Once you've let it idle for a bit initially, make sure the coolant is up to the max
           mark again, refit the cap to the header tank, close up the bonnet and go for a gentle drive-
           armed with a couple of litres of pre-mixed coolant! Take it easy and don't work the engine hard! Drive a
           mile or so (or as soon as the temperature gauge starts to lift off of minimum), pull over, open the
           bonnet and carefully release the header tank cap to release any pressure- don't fully
           remove it until you're sure all pressure has been released- you don't want to get scalded by boiling
           coolant! Top up if required then refit the cap, drive on another mile or so and repeat, until the coolant
           level in the header tank drops markedly indicating that the thermostat has opened and air has been
           purged out of the system. What tends to happen is that the air purges all of a sudden and in one go
           rather than progressively- so go carefully and check regularly- you don't want to be driving far
           with an empty header tank!

           Once you're happy the coolant level has dropped and you've topped it up to the max mark again, you
           can drive more normally- there's still likely to be a bit of air left in the system but this will work it's way
           out with a bit of driving, usually I find if you get the engine hot (i.e, up to normal operating 
           temperature) and bleed the majority of the air as above, then leave the vehicle overnight, the level will
           have dropped again by the morning when the engine is stone cold, so keep an eye on the level over the
           next couple of days and top up as required- keep an eye out also for any leaks and components working
           loose, and an ear out for any unusual noises!


                           The belt routing for the auxiliary drive belt can be found here.
               
                                                  TORQUE FIGURES
  (figures with an ^e after them have been estimated by me based on the size and function of
                                the fastener, the others are courtesy of the Haynes manual)

                                                           (general) 
                                              Wheel bolts (19mm): 170nm
                          Power steering pipe bracket to engine block (13mm): 25nm^e

                                                       (engine mount)
                           Cast iron engine mounting bracket/stub bolts (16mm x3): 60nm
                             ''     ''       ''          ''             ''           ''         (13mm x3): 35nm^e
                           Pressed steel body mounted bracket (internal 55 torx x3): 50nm^e
                            Aluminium body to engine mount bracket nuts and bolts-
                                                                                          16mm bolt x3: 60nm
                                                                                          16mm nut x2:  55nm
                                                             
                                                   (engine components)
                                Auxiliary drive belt tensioner bolts (13mm x3): 25nm
Crankshaft pulley bolts (6mm hex key x4): 10nm plus 90 degree angle tighten- see * below!
                               Timing belt pressed steel cover bolts (10mm x5): 10nm
                                               Water pump bolts (10mm x3): 15nm
                                        Timing belt idler roller locknut (13mm*¹): 20nm
                Timing belt tensioner locknut (15mm): 20nm plus 45 degree angle tighten
                     Camshaft sprocket to camshaft hub retaining bolts (13mm x3): 25nm

     *- In practice, even with an impact gun I found it impossible to angle tighten the bolts another 90
         degrees after the initial 10nm stage, which for a comparitively small 6mm hex key would require an
         enormous amount of torque to do, so I would say a 45 degree angle tighten here would be a better
         bet!

    *¹- The O.E locknut is 13mm, whilst the locknut that came with the Dayco kit, whilst having
         the same internal thread was 15mm, the same torque figure applies for either.


As always, I've tried to be as accurate and thorough as possible but I am only human, so errors and omissions excepted!